24 July 2013

The outboard motor well

is a particular challenge.


Here we are in uncharted territory, at least as far as my experience is concerned. The details of this modification is based mainly on the pictures of what builders of other boat designs have done.




February 2013.  

The upper edges of the hull is now more stable with the installation of the coamings that define the side decks.










Lazarette bulkhead


The original transom is now the lazarette bulkhead and the pattern is laid out on the temporary frame.

The cut out for the motor well determined with a mock up.


Lazarette bulkhead is cut and fitted as well as the top and bottom stringers for the cockpit seats.












Motor well doubler glued to bulkhead.

The cleats for the well sides in place. Did I say I don't like stitch and goo? I'd rather do stringers or even frames.








Motor well is cut out.



















Outboard motor slot 


How much courage does it take to cut up your hull?  The minimum width for the lower unit is drawn and the jigsaw goes for the tilt slot.


There's a hole in the boat!
















Test fitting the outboard


Lowering the outboard with a hoist. 

It turns out that the slot is a bit on the narrow side so the prop has to be wiggled in. The forward end of the slot will need to be widened enough so the motor can be more easily put in or taken out, especially when the boat is in motion at sea.



















The upper end of the slot is conservatively cut short and it takes a few additional cuts to get it to the proper height.










The estimates turn out fine: there's just enough clearance for the prop to swing at the bottom corner of the transom.











There's also enough clearance inside for small adjustments including lowering the mounting height if needed later.


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